Serious Heat. — Rebecca

My twenty-third birthday began with a 3:30 AM alarm. Surprisingly, I was wide-awake as soon as my alarm sounded, filled with the slightly nervous excitement of knowing I had a plane to catch. I would be spending the next week in Arizona. After a quick lay-over in Chicago, I found myself in Phoenix, slightly woozy from lack of sleep but ecstatic to be reunited with my wonderful parents.

After the cool of the airport, walking into the 100+ degree dry desert heat made me realize I was really there, in a climate and part of the country that I’d never experienced before. After months of anticipation, training, and gear-gathering, we were less than twenty-four hours from our greatest (or should I say, grandest!) family adventure to date—a Rim-to-Rim backing trip through the Grand Canyon.

Growing up in the Lowcountry of South Carolina, I am no stranger to weeks of ninety-five degree days, and sweltering, 100% humidity, walk-outside-and-you’re-sweating heat. Arizona heat is different. It feels more like being in an oven, but instead of feeling sweaty, I just felt thirsty. Also, Arizonian establishments (or at least most that we visited) do not skimp on air conditioning. A tip for anyone cold-natured, like me, who hasn’t experienced July in the Phoenix/Scottsdale area: Take a jacket with you because the time between the car and a building will be really really hot, but inside you’ll be forced to use the restaurant napkin as a tiny blanket for your shivering knees.

After a pre-trip meeting with our guides and fellow backpackers, followed by carb-loading at the trusty ole Olive Garden near our hotel, we packed up our backpacks with camping gear, snacks, and the first round of many liters of water. Then, I slept like a rock until the 4 am wake-up call.

The next four days in the Grand Canyon were nothing short of magnificent. Sure, it was really REALLY hot and my feet hurt in a way they’ve never hurt before, but the beauty and scale of the canyon was like nothing I have ever experienced. None of my photos capture the depth and range of color in the canyon walls and how they transformed in the changing light of the morning. I was amazed at the way the entire canyon transformed throughout our trip-- the plant life, colors, temperature, even the light. In crossing the canyon from the North Rim, descending down to the floor, then ascending back up to the South Rim, we passed through every ecosystem found between Canada and Mexico. In short summary, here’s how it went:

Day 1:

Tried to stay awake to enjoy the desert views (but mostly napped intermittently) during the six hour drive from Scottsdale to the North Rim.

A view from the drive up to the North Rim

Near the North Rim, made an essential pit-stop for some famously delicious cookies at Jacob Lake Inn. After pre-trail lunch, learned just how heavy thirty pounds feels, and deeply regretted weighing our packs.

The North Rim is around a thousand feet higher than the south rim, so the temperature in the shade of the trail wasn’t too bad. What was bad was the sheer volume of dust and other (very fragrant) evidence of the heavy mule traffic. Luckily that only lasted a couple miles. Hiked 7 miles (11.26 kilometers) and 4,200 feet (1280 meters) down to Cottonwood Campground.

Day 2:

Followed the North Kaibab trail along Bright Angel Creek another 7 miles (11.26 kilometers) and 1,500 feet (457.2 meters) down to Bright Angel Campground, adjacent to Phantom Ranch. Drank (and reveled in the glory of) ice cold lemonade at Phantom Ranch. Submerged entire body in the blissfully cool Bright Angel Creek that mercifully was steps from our campsite. Realized that walking feels like floating when you don’t have a pack on, on a short hike down to a beach along the Colorado River. Dipped sore feet in the chill of the Colorado and watched a packrafting group launch from the beach. Realized the Canyon is even more beautiful from the bottom than it is from the top.

Day 3:

Began our ascent, hiking up Bright Angel Trail 1,400 ft (426.72 m) to Indian Garden Campground. Defended packs from the most fearless squirrels I’ve ever encountered. Again, experienced the bliss of soaking everything from toes to chin in cool creek water, until fingers and toes turned pruny. Took a short, pack-less (i.e. joyous) hike out along the Plateau Point Trail for panoramic canyon views at sunset. Pinched arm to be sure it was real.

Day 4:

Rose well before the sun to begin the 3,000 ft (914.4 m) final climb up Bright Angel Trail to the South Rim. Trudged up what felt like endless switchbacks. Felt immense satisfaction at the summit of the South Rim.

Slept like a dead rock for most of the four hour drive back to Scottsdale. Thanked our encouraging, caring, knowledgeable, funny, and incredibly strong guides (shouts out to Dallan and Adam!) for keeping us hydrated, fed, safe, and smiling on an amazing trip. Said sad goodbyes to the other lovely folks in our trip group, who were a pleasure to journey with and get to know.

For anyone interested in doing a Rim-to-Rim trip or really if you’re just looking to have an awesome adventure, I would highly recommend checking out Just Roughin’ It. My Dad found the company online, and they were fantastic throughout the entire process. My parents and I were so thankful to have them facilitate such a fantastic experience, down to every detail.

Post- Hike Adventures:

After a restful night's sleep in real beds, we spent the next day at the Heard Museum in Phoenix. The Heard beautifully and poignantly shares the history and beauty of American Indian Art through a powerful combination of paintings, sculpture, digital media, artifacts, and experiential exhibits. The Heard is also home to the Heard Courtyard Cafe, which has the best museum food I’ve ever had in my life. I wish I had a lifetime supply of their prickly pear lemonade.

For our last full day in Arizona, we started of with another 4am wake-up call. By the time the sun was rising, we were climbing into the basket of a hot air balloon just outside of Phoenix. We floated around for nearly an hour, watching the sky turn pink and orange and the shadow of our balloon grow smaller and smaller, before a graceful return to land. I am not a fan of heights, but the ride was so gentle and smooth that I never felt afraid. After a celebratory prickly pear mimosa, we headed back to the Rainbow Ryders warehouse for breakfast, and to figure out what to do with our last day in Phoenix.

Our balloon pilot recommended we visit the Musical Instrument Museum, so that’s what we did. I had never heard of the MIM, but I would go back to Phoenix just to spend another full day (if not two) exploring and listening to the music there. Visitors are outfitted with headphones and a listening device that tunes-in to audio/visual performances paired with over 6,500 instruments from over 200 countries/territories. I was mesmerized wandering the galleries hearing music performed on instruments I have never seen before--everything from a shell trumpet from Micronesia to a frottoir from Louisiana. The ingenuity behind the instruments of so many different cultures was fascinating, not to mention the range of expression and sound. I’m not sure when, but I will make it back to the MIM someday.

Suddenly the week was over, and I was saying goodbye to my parents in the Phoenix airport. I came back to DC with sore shoulders and memories I’m going to cherish forever. I knew the Grand Canyon was going to be beautiful, but the canyon and the desert and the trip as a whole was so much more than I expected. It was a gift to share that time and experience with my parents, and I am already looking forward to our next grand adventure.